Darwin to Cairns the long way round.
Firstly, if you’re thinking of this trip too, just do it. You’re going to see breathtaking landscapes, diverse wildlife, have amazing cultural encounters, see the night sky the way it should look – peppered with a trillion stars; eat amazing food, meet fabulous characters, drink an enormous quantity of wine, and have many many unforgettable experiences.
Just the road around, with no side trips or chipping around town etc, covers a distance of over 11,000 kilometres. The route takes you through some of the most remarkable destinations Australia has to offer. From the tropical beauty of Katherine and Kununurra to the stunning coastline of Perth and the iconic Great Barrier Reef, each stop along the way has unique attractions and experiences – and that includes the locals. It is epic!!!
I never see this trip on the ‘bucket lists’. Maybe it’s just too big, or just not so obvious, but it should be at the top. So I wanted to share some of the best reasons to go, and relive it a little in the process. My memory may be a little fuzzy now after these long years, and some things may have changed – but things change slow out there.
Prior to this epic journey, we’d been to Australia a few years before. On that trip we went right through the centre a few times, relocating vehicles for Britz. This, by the way, is also a brilliant way to see bits of the country on the cheap. If you don’t care where you end up and just want a great outback experience along with a taste of some of the far flung places in Aus – let’s be honest, everywhere in Australia is far flung right! – and you’ve only got a month or two, then this could be for you.
On this second trip though, we had more time – a year in fact. That’s a great amount of time to allow yourself. You could do this in 6 months comfortably and slowly too. But with a year you can pick a spot to stay for a good amount of time and really get to know it and live like a local for a bit. We ended up in Melbourn working for 5 months, so were truly Aussie locals when we left. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Back in August of 2001, the southern hemisphere’s winter, we flew into Darwin, right at the top of Australia’s Northern Territory. This was a great place for us to kick off the trip because we’d been there once before on that previous whistle stop tour. It’s comforting to begin an adventure with a little familiarity – helps settle you in without the hard landing I find.
We were on a tight budget backpacking, so we had to find a cheap place to stay while we spent some time buying a car – well you can’t hire one if you’re going to travel for that long can you? So we found ourselves in a nice clean little double room – above a strip bar. That was pretty interesting, and if the music is keeping you up, you might as well go for a drink right!
It took around a week and a half to find a car – a white Holden Commodore Station Wagon. First tip: if you’re buying a car with the intention of doing quite a bit of outback driving, try to steer clear of white – it soon becomes red. Oh yes, and tip two, which we discovered a little further down the road: even on the hottest of days, don’t drive down the unsealed red dirt roads with the windows open, or everything you own will be forever red too.
So with our new trusty wheels (well trustyish) we went and picked up a set of supplies ready for the off. Here, from memory, is what we found essential:
- A solid cast iron wok, real big, and capable of sitting in a fire, for cooking hearty meal in the wilderness
- A jerry can, you know those real big 20 litre petrol cans because it’s pretty empty out there
- A really good pocket knife and a couple of lighters
- Some plastic plates and bowls that you can eat off and cut stuff up on along with cups and cutlery
- Big bread knives for slicing through crusty damper loaves
- A couple of big metal cups if you can – because you can heat stuff up in the metal ones
- A couple of huge water containers
- A big cool box, esky or ice box or whatever you call it to keep your food fresh
- A pack of sealable big food bags to put stuff in in the esky because it gets wet when the ice melts
- A map of Australia – different times maybe, but your phone isn’t going to work for 4 days in a row while you navigate the outback from town to town
- Several boxes of red wine to drink under the stars when the beers have gone warm
- And a shit load of cold beer – just to keep the esky cold you understand
We already had a small 2 man hiking tent and sleeping bags but you’ll defo need that camping gear too to get the most out of being away from the towns – and on this trip, you will be a very very long way from the towns.
When you set off on this route you know one thing for sure – you’ll spend a lot of time away from anything. If you’re a traveller, holiday maker, or backpacker; who’s looking for an action packed cram it all in type of trip then this may not be for you. But if you want a sense that the world is still a big place; that there are some beautiful pockets that are still truly a wilderness; and you want to see nature’s beauty alone – so no crowds heading for the same things at the same time, you are going to have the best time in your life – literally.
Before you head off, and while you’re looking for your car here’s a bunch of amazing reasons to be in Darwin. Again, this was a long time ago so a bunch may have changed, so check it out before you go.
1. Explore Mindil Beach Sunset Market: Experience the vibrant atmosphere of this amazing market, indulge in delicious food, and watch the stunning sunset over the beach. Website: www.mindil.com.au
2. Take a sunset cruise on Darwin Harbour: Enjoy a romantic cruise, admire the city skyline, and witness the beautiful sunset over the water. Website: www.darwinharbourcruises.com.au
3. Visit the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory: Explore the diverse exhibits showcasing Aboriginal art, natural history, and maritime history. Website:www.magnt.net.au
4. Discover the Territory Wildlife Park: Get up close to native Australian animals, walk through the aviaries, and learn about the local wildlife conservation efforts. Website: www.territorywildlifepark.com.au
5. Take a day trip to Litchfield National Park: Enjoy swimming in natural waterholes, admire breathtaking waterfalls, and go on a scenic hike in this stunning national park. Website: www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/parks/find/litchfield
6. Explore the George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens: Wander through the beautifully landscaped gardens, enjoy a picnic, and spot diverse plant species. Website: www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au/gardens
7. Visit Crocosaurus Cove: Get a close-up view of saltwater crocodiles, hold a baby crocodile, and learn about these fascinating reptiles. Website: www.crocosauruscove.com
8. How big is your budget? If you’re lucky enough to have a fat one, take a helicopter scenic flight over Darwin: Enjoy a breathtaking aerial view of the city, coastline, and surrounding landscapes. Website: www.ntair.com.au
9. Relax at the Darwin Waterfront Precinct: Swim in the wave pool, dine at waterfront restaurants, and take a leisurely stroll along the picturesque boardwalk. Website: www.waterfront.nt.gov.au
And now you’ve done all that, you’ll be just about ready for some alone time. Head over to part 2 here – we’re off.
